Imagine a dish so beloved it’s practically synonymous with American comfort food—mac and cheese. Now, picture the man behind its rise to fame: not a celebrated chef in a fancy restaurant, but an enslaved Black man named James Hemings. Yes, you read that right. The story of mac and cheese in America is deeply intertwined with the life of a man whose culinary genius has only recently begun to receive the recognition it deserves. But here’s where it gets controversial: while many associate mac and cheese with Italian or Swiss origins, the version Americans cherish today might owe its popularity to Hemings, who brought French culinary techniques to the New World. And this is the part most people miss—his influence didn’t just stop at mac and cheese; it helped shape the very foundation of American cuisine.
This Thanksgiving, as families across the U.S. gather around tables laden with mac and cheese, few may realize that this dish’s journey to their plates began in the 18th century with Hemings, who worked in the kitchens of Thomas Jefferson. Long before Jefferson became president, he appointed Hemings to train as a chef in Paris, where he mastered French cooking techniques like braising, poaching, and sautéing. These skills were virtually unknown in America at the time, and Hemings used them to create dishes like the ‘snow egg,’ a poached meringue floating in crème anglaise. But here’s the kicker: pasta baked with cheese was already popular in France, and Hemings likely brought this dish back to the U.S., adapting it to suit American tastes—or perhaps Jefferson’s preferences.
Hemings’ story is complex. He wasn’t just any enslaved person; he was the half-brother of Jefferson’s first wife, Martha, and the brother of Sally Hemings, who bore six of Jefferson’s children. This familial connection granted him opportunities others in his position could only dream of. ‘He was constantly negotiating and renegotiating with Jefferson in ways that you might not traditionally think of an enslaved person being able to do,’ explains Nicole Brown, a historian at Monticello. Is it possible to celebrate Hemings’ culinary legacy without glossing over the brutal realities of his enslavement? That’s a question worth discussing.
After returning from Paris, Hemings served as Jefferson’s head chef at Monticello, New York, and Philadelphia, until he negotiated his freedom in 1796. His French-inspired dishes became the talk of the East Coast, influencing the culinary habits of the nation’s elite. While most American foods of the time were cooked over a hearth or open fireplace, Hemings’ recipes required advanced techniques and equipment, like the stew stove—a precursor to the modern stove. As wealthy diners sought to replicate his style, Hemings inadvertently became one of America’s first celebrity chefs, though his status as an enslaved man meant he never received the accolades he deserved.
Jefferson’s favorite, ‘macaroni pie,’ was a highlight of Hemings’ repertoire. Made by cooking macaroni in milk and water, layering it with cheese and butter, and baking it to perfection, this dish became a staple at Jefferson’s table. Whether Hemings’ version was a direct adaptation of French recipes or a creation of his own remains unclear. What’s certain is that over the next century, mac and cheese spread across the U.S., fueled by the influx of Italian immigrants in the 1880s, industrialization of pasta and cheese production, and the introduction of Kraft’s boxed mac and cheese during the Great Depression. Today, mac and cheese is a $2.9 billion industry, with the average American enjoying it 22 times a year.
Hemings’ legacy extends beyond mac and cheese. He’s part of a growing recognition of how enslaved African Americans shaped American food culture. Figures like Hercules Posy, George Washington’s enslaved chef, and countless unnamed Black cooks introduced dishes like rice, cornbread, and grits to American tables. Yet, their contributions have long been overlooked. Is it enough to acknowledge their roles now, or should we be doing more to honor their memories?
At Monticello, visitors can explore Hemings’ story through the ‘From Slavery to Freedom’ walking tour, which honors the over 600 enslaved individuals who lived and worked there. His life has also been featured in books, documentaries, and even a Netflix series, High on the Hog. ‘He was this incredible person with a really powerful personality,’ Brown reflects. ‘He’s better educated than most people in the United States, yet because he was deemed Black and enslaved, he never attained the equality a white person in his position would have.’
More than 200 years after his death, James Hemings is finally being celebrated as a pioneer of American cuisine. But his story also forces us to confront the uncomfortable truths of our past. As we savor our mac and cheese, should we also be grappling with the legacy of slavery that’s baked into so many of our favorite dishes? Let’s continue this conversation in the comments.
